WWII Levi’s: How to Spot an S501XX or S506XX and What It Is Worth

Once the United States entered the war, Levi’s garments were classed as staple work clothing under War Production Board rules, and the Office of Price Administration controlled their cost and construction, Levi’s historian has written. Metal and thread were rationed, so Levi’s took off whatever it could. The result was a plainer pair of jeans and a plainer jacket, and the lot numbers gained an S, for simplified.

How do I know if my Levi’s jeans are from World War II?

Look for the wartime changes together. One alone proves little, because each has other explanations. All of them on one pair, with a leather patch, is the S501XX.

Levi’s says the pocket flasher on wartime jeans promised the arcuate would only be painted “For The Duration.” Heddels, the dating guide collectors use, notes that most S501XX jeans lost their paint long ago, which is why a pair with plain back pockets, donut buttons and no crotch or watch-pocket rivets deserves a careful look. A pair with plain back pockets and every other detail of a later jean is just a later jean.

How do I know if my Type 1 jacket is from World War II?

The wartime Type 1, the S506XX, lost its chest pocket flap and took donut buttons, and Gear Patrol notes it also dropped a front button and the flap button. It kept its pleats and its cinch at the back. Heddels dates the change to 1941 and the return of the flap to 1947; Levi’s own reissue is named for 1944. So a one-pocket, pleated Levi’s jacket with no flap over the pocket and donut buttons is the one to photograph first. The Type 1 guide covers the rest of the dating, from the buckle to the tab.

Is mine an original or a Levi’s Vintage Clothing reissue?

Levi’s Vintage Clothing has reissued the 1944 S501XX since the late 1990s, at its Valencia Street plant in San Francisco and later in Japan, and has released the S506XX jacket several times, most recently a limited US run in the summer of 2025 and a Japan-only release in January 2026. Most eBay listings titled S501XX are these reissues. The inside tells them apart.

Reissues are worth money too: on October 28, 2026, 1944 S501XX reissues were listed on eBay at about $820 to $1,550 and S506XX reissue jackets at about $1,800 to $7,000, asking prices. The reproduction guide covers more of the tells.

What are WWII Levi’s worth?

Asking prices are hopes, and we could not read sold prices, so we give you the listings and say so. What moves a real wartime piece up is the same list as any old Levi’s: a dark body, a readable leather patch, a size that fits today, and no repairs, washes or alterations. The record jacket was museum-grade deadstock; a worn family pair should not be priced against it. Gear Patrol notes that very few wartime jackets were made and nobody thought them special at the time.

What should I not do before selling them?

• Wash them. Washing can wear away what is left of a painted arcuate, and darkness is part of the price.
• Repaint or restitch the back pockets. A worn painted arcuate is evidence; a new one is a problem.
• Replace the buttons. The donut buttons are part of how a buyer confirms the date.
• Pull the patch. A readable leather patch helps prove the age.
• Price them from the highest listing or from the record. Asks run well above sales.

Where can I sell WWII Levi’s?

Listing them yourself on eBay or Grailed usually brings the most if you photograph the pockets, buttons, patch and crotch well and handle the questions; the route comparison sets out each platform’s cut. Vintage shops pay less but pay at once. California Vintage Buyers buys wartime Levi’s jeans and jackets, originals and reissues, from every state: we look at them together on a free video call, agree the price on the call, and pay through PayPal before you ship, with shipping on us. In Southern California we come to you and pay cash the same visit. If yours are worth more listed yourself, we will say so. Start with the photo guide, then call or text (949) 449-1255.