Field Guide

1940s Levi’s: How to Tell If Yours Are From the 1940s and What They Are Worth

The 1940s gave Levi’s three different jeans in one decade: a pre-war pair with a buckle, a stripped-down wartime pair, and the post-war 501XX that every later 501 copies. Here is how to tell which one you have, and what each is worth.

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By Sam Wingenbach and Jake Cover, the buyers behind our video appraisals and house calls · Updated October 28, 2026

Sam walks through the check in the video above.
Read the transcript

This Short has no spoken words, only music and on-screen text. What it shows: The patch on your Levi's tells the decade. Bold block 501XX lettering is the 1990s to the early 2000s, a card patch with XX in the lot number is before the mid-1960s, and a leather patch is before the mid-1950s, even dried and cracked. Text a photo of the patch to (949) 449-1255 for a free answer the same day. House calls across Southern California, buying nationwide.

Watch page with full transcript

The short answer: original 1940s and 1950s 501XX jeans with hidden rivets sold for about $700 to $2,500 on eBay in the summer of 2026, and wartime S501XX jeans from 1942 to 1947 bring more than $6,000 in good condition by Heddels’ measure. A 1940s Type 1 jacket typically brings $2,000 to $8,000 worn, read in August 2026. Levi’s has also reissued its 1937, 1944 and 1947 jeans, so check the inside before you price anything. California Vintage Buyers buys 1940s Levi’s from every state. Call or text (949) 449-1255.

Back of a pair of 1940s Levi's 501XX jeans showing the waistband, belt loops, red tab and back pockets
A 1940s 501XX from the back: no cinch, a red tab on the right back pocket.

Which 1940s Levi’s jeans do I have?

Heddels, the dating guide collectors use, splits the decade into three 501XX models. The back of the waist, the back pockets and the rivets tell them apart in a minute.

Model, by Heddels’ datesBack of the waistBack pocketsRivets
Pre-war 501XX, 1941 to 1942A cinch and buckleArcuate sewnCrotch rivet and watch-pocket rivets
Wartime S501XX, 1942 to 1947No cinchArcuate painted on, usually worn offNo crotch rivet, no watch-pocket rivets
Post-war 501XX, 1947 to 1955No cinchArcuate sewn again, with a diamond where the arcs meetWatch-pocket rivets back, no crotch rivet

Through the 1940s all three carry a leather patch, and the red tab has LEVI’S on one side only, which Heddels reads as made before about 1951. Back pocket rivets are hidden under the denim from 1937 on. A buckle on jeans means before about 1942; the buckle-back guide covers those, and the WWII guide covers the wartime pair in full.

What about 1940s Levi’s jackets and women’s jeans?

  • The Type 1 jacket, lot 506XX, was Levi’s only denim jacket all decade: one chest pocket, pleats, a buckle at the back. The Type 1 guide dates it by pocket flap, tab and buckle.
  • During the war the Type 1 lost its pocket flap and took donut buttons; the flap came back in 1947. That wartime jacket is the S506XX.
  • A Type 1 with a wool blanket inside is the rare lined version, which Japanese collector references call the 519XX; see the blanket-lined jacket guide.
  • Women’s jeans: Levi’s made the 701, Lady Levi’s, from 1934. The 701 guide dates them.

Are mine from the 1940s or a reissue?

Levi’s Vintage Clothing has reissued the 1937, 1944 and 1947 501 and the 1936 and wartime Type 1, and its product pages are what Google shows first for “1940s Levi’s.” The outside of a reissue matches. The inside gives it away: a reissue has a printed care or size label sewn inside with a style number and a country of origin, and many 1990s reissues have 555 on the button backs, for the Valencia Street plant in San Francisco. A 1940s original has no care label at all, because US care labels began in 1971. The reproduction guide covers more of the tells.

What are 1940s Levi’s worth?

What you havePrice, with the date and source
1940s or 1950s 501XX with hidden rivets, originalSold for about $700 to $2,500 on eBay, June to August 2026
1940s or 1950s leather-patch 501XX listed by a US seller$3,299, October 28, 2026 (asking price)
Post-war 501XX listed by sellers in JapanAbout $5,900 to $6,600, October 28, 2026 (asking prices)
Wartime S501XX, good vintage conditionMore than $6,000 (Heddels)
1940s Type 1 jacket, wornTypically $2,000 to $8,000 (our August 2026 read). We paid $12,000 cash for a 1940s Type 1
1940s or 1950s Levi’s 701About $550 to $2,500 listed by US sellers, October 28, 2026 (asking prices)

Read the listing prices with care: asks run above sales, and most of the highest asks for 1940s Levi’s come from dealers in Japan. Inside each range, what moves a pair up is the same list every time: a dark body, a readable leather patch, a size that fits a grown adult today, and no repairs, washes or alterations. Pre-war and wartime pairs sit above post-war ones.

Where can I sell 1940s Levi’s?

Listing them yourself on eBay or Grailed usually brings the most if you photograph the patch, tab, pockets and buttons well and handle the questions; the route comparison sets out each platform’s cut. Vintage shops pay less but pay at once. California Vintage Buyers buys 1940s Levi’s jeans and jackets from every state: we look at them together on a free video call, agree the price on the call, and pay through PayPal before you ship, with shipping on us. In Southern California we come to you and pay cash the same visit. If yours are worth more listed yourself, we will say so. Start with the photo guide, then call or text (949) 449-1255.

Common questions

How can I tell if my Levi’s are from the 1940s?
Look for a leather patch, a red tab with LEVI’S on one side only, hidden back pocket rivets and no care label. Then read the back: a cinch means pre-war, a painted or blank arcuate with no crotch or watch-pocket rivets means the wartime S501XX of 1942 to 1947, and a sewn arcuate with a diamond and riveted watch pocket means the post-war 501XX from 1947.
What are 1940s Levi’s jeans worth?
Original 1940s and 1950s 501XX jeans with hidden rivets sold for about $700 to $2,500 on eBay in summer 2026, and Heddels puts wartime S501XX jeans above $6,000 in good condition. California Vintage Buyers gives free reads from any state at (949) 449-1255.
Are my 1947 Levi’s real or a reissue?
Levi’s Vintage Clothing has made a 1947 501 reissue. Look inside: a reissue has a printed care or size label with a style number and country of origin, and many 1990s reissues have 555 on the button backs. An original from the 1940s has no care label, because US care labels began in 1971.
Where can I sell 1940s Levi’s?
California Vintage Buyers buys 1940s Levi’s jeans and jackets from every state: text photos of the back pockets, patch, tab and fly buttons to (949) 449-1255, agree the price on a free video call, and get paid through PayPal before you ship, with shipping on us.

Have something like this?

One phone call, from any state. A free video appraisal, the price agreed on the call, and payment through PayPal before you ship, with shipping on us. In Southern California we come to you and pay cash the same day.

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